Welcome to Geneva

Welcome to Geneva! I mean that in the sense like when people say “I can’t believe it’s so hot here – welcome to Thailand” or “I can’t believe it’s so disfunctional here – welcome to Italy”. In the case of Geneva it’s: “my gosh, I can’t believe it’s so expensive here”  Welcome to Geneva!

This is a simple guide to expat life in and around Geneva, in the form of FAQs.

I have been connected to Geneva for many years but I moved here full time in January 2023. I have created this website purely as a hobby in the hope that it will help other people who are moving here. It is based solely on my personal experiences.

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Where should I start ?

First port of call: www.cagi.ch. Unlike some places that I have lived, there is quite a lot already available online about expat life in Geneva. Most importantly, there is a really excellent resource from the City of Geneva authorities called www.cagi.ch, which stands for Centre d’Accueil de la Genève Internationale (CAGI), and translates to International Geneva Welcome Centre. They provide a whole host of information which I do not intend on duplicating here.

Facebook groups: If you’re new to Geneva, I highly recomend joining the Expat Facebook groups for the city:

  1. Geneva Expats: This group has 89,000 members and is very active
  2. Geneva Expats: This group has the same name but only 5,000 members.
  3. Expats in Geneva: This group has 30,000 members
  4. Geneva & Switzerland Expats Community – This group has 34,000 members
  5. Fhere are also about 5 groups for finding property to rent in Geneva…. just search “geneva apartments for rent” on Facebook

Also, check out the cool map I created of things to do in Geneva: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Fgq8d6tWzLg62gHs6?g_st=iw

https://maps.app.goo.gl/Fgq8d6tWzLg62gHs6?g_st=iw

Is Geneva Expensive?

Oh la la! Geneva is off the clock expensive, which is why it is consistently ranked amongst the top 5 most expensive cities in the world. Here are some prices that you’re going to have to get used to:

  • A 3 bedroom appartment will cost around 4,000 – 5,000 chf a month (that’s about 4,000 – 5,000 Euros at the time of writing).
  • A government provided Creche will cost 1,400. Private Creches are between 3,200 and 3,900, per month.
  • Therefore, if you want to live in a 3 bedroom apartment and you have 2 children of Creche age, and you’re not yet eligible for state provided Creche, you’ll need 11,800 chf per month just to cover rent and Creche.
  • Guess how much the below items cost from a local shop in Geneva:

If you guessed 32, you’d be wrong. 38? Nope. 8 items from the local shop = 46 chf!

What’s Childcare like in Geneva

  • Finding child care for young kids is a nightmare in Geneva, especially if you’re not from here.
  • Public creches are by far the best option but you are only eligible to apply once you live in Geneva. The waiting lists are so long that most people apply for their place when they are pregnant (if they already live here). If you are moving to Geneva, it’s almost impossible to get yourself into a public creche. Most people find another option first, apply for Creche as soon as they find a place to live, and then move the kids from other option into the creche when a place becomes available. Public creches charge a percentage of your salary. Many colleagues pay around 1,400 / 1,500 per month
  • There are a number of private Creches in Geneva, such as
  • Another option is “maman du jour”, or child minders. These licensed individuals care for up to 4 children in their homes. They cost between 15 and 25 CHF per hour. It’s a great first option but when the Maman gets sick, for example, you have to take care of your own kids.

What’s Childcare like in Surrounding France?

  • French public creches are similar to Swiss ones but a bit cheaper. In order to get into a public Creche you need to register with the French government for a CAF number, which takes a few months. Then, most creches don’t have space until the next academic year
  • Private Creches also have a long waiting list in France. However, in August 2023 there’s a new one that’s opening in Crozet, and they still have places at the time of writing (June 2023), see https://www.lacompagniecreative.fr/. They already have creches in Saint Genis and Prévessin and the Crozet one is new.
  • Like Switzerland, France also has child minders but they call them “assistante maternelle”. They also require registration with CAF but some will let you start whilst waiting for the registration to be complete. They charge 4.5 an hour, fixed rate.
  • A final option is to get a nanny which is obviously cheaper in France than in Switzerland.

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How do I find a place to live in Geneva?

The housing market in Geneva is fast and furious. It’s a sellers market because there are around 5 people for every apartment for rent so you have to be quick and come prepared.

There’s no point in finding a house until you have your “dossier” ready because if you don’t have it ready, it will be taken by the time you do. A dossier is a file of all the documents that you need to rent a house (ID, salary slip, contract, etc). The one item that is unique to Geneva is the document of non pursuit, which basically says that you’re not in Debt in Geneva. You need it even if you haven’t lived in Geneva before, which makes no sense but it’s a hoop that you have to jump through nevertheless.

Once you have your dossier ready, you’ll need to find some places you like and go and see them. Many (many) people find their apartment through one of the Facebook groups that I’ve listed below, where apartments are posted every day. Other people use an agency, with mixed results. Some agencies are super well connected to the local regulators (regies) and they are able to find you special deals. Others just cater to the international agencies and so, knowing that these people have huge budgets, don’t usually bother to find the best deals. It’s probably best to go with a mix of both. I also recommend joining the Facebook groups well in advance of your arrival in Geneva and keep an eye on the market to get a feel of what you can get for your money.

Don’t forget that it’s also possible (for most people) to live across the border in France. In this case it’s a slightly different system but you still need to have your dossier ready.

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Should I live in Switzerland or France?

One question many people ask is whether they should live in Geneva itself, or in neighboring France. Geneva is surrounded on three sides by France and so thousands of people live in France and work in Geneva. Here’s a few pointers:

  • This only easy to do for EU nationals. People from other countries have to apply for a visa to live in France, which often makes it too complicated.
  • To the north of Geneva you have Pays de Gex, which is calm, family oriented, quiet (too quiet for some) and rural. Because the UN and other international organisations are largely in the North of Geneva, this area is full of expats. Indeed the highly wittily names expat Facebook group, Gexpats, has over 8,000 members.
  • To the South you have Annemasse. Annemasse city is a provincial French city and, whilst its gentrifying quickly, the city centre is still a bit grotty. The areas around are nicer (Ville la grand, Gaillard, etc).
  • To the west of Geneva you have St Julien de Genevois, which I don’t know very well. I have heard it’s a little nicer than Annemasse.

Basically, France is cheaper than Switzerland and that’s why people live there. Some people also perhaps live there because it’s not possible to buy property in Switzerland as a foreigner , but ultimately nobody lives in surrounding France for the ambiance.

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What are the best restaurants in Geneva?

I’ve eaten at lots of restaurants in Geneva but a list of all the restaurants that I’ve been to would be meaningless. Instead, here is a list of ones that I find exceptional or stand out:

  1. Brasserie Lipp – busy, old school brasserie which, crucially, is open all day on Sundays
  2. Pad Thai Geneve – I lived in Thailand for 10 years and I find this Thai restaurant incredibly authentic! Note that there are two restaurants called Pad Thai – make sure that you get the right one.
  3. Cafe de la Tour – If you’re looking for somewhere a little more out the way and in nature, this place is delightful. It doesn’t have a view as it’s surrounded by trees, but a wonderful village atmosphere and good food. There’s also a park right next to it and a petting zoo (local animals)
  4. Scaramu – best pizza in Geneva according to my wife, who’s from Naples.

Best pub: Grand Duke Pub… proper British pub

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Where can I find vegan restaurants in Geneva?

Gives a Fork – very trendy and apparently delicious vegan Asian street food – https://www.worldofmq.com/givesafork

What fun things are there to do in the evening?

  • If it’s summer, head to la terrassa by the lake
  • Check out La Petite Reine by the station – a cool (slightly hipster) drinks spot right in the centre
  • Move on to Place des Grottes for a bunch more hip bars and small eateries
  • Head down to Paquis for sports pub
  • Check out the Thai karaoke at James Pub!

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What activities are there for families in Geneva?

You are spoiled for choice in Geneva. There is so much for familes to do and, incredibly, many of them are free! You can find many of these things here: https://www.geneve.ch/fr/faire-geneve

  • Parc aux animaux du Bois de la Bâtie – this place is so nice. You can wander round and see the animals including peacocks, deer, goats, ducks, etc. And it’s totally free.
  • La Gavotte is another animal place that’s completely free. Highly recomended. There is also an equestrain centre here where kids can learn to horse ride… but that’s not free!

Can I use an e-scooter in Geneva?

  • E-scooters are called Trotrinettes in French
  • There are no public e-scooters for rent in Geneva but you can buy your own
  • E-scooters are limited to 20km/h in Switzerland but 25km/h in France.

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Is there any wine produced in Geneva area?

  • Yes, there are over 70 vinyards in the Geneva canton. See this cool interactive map, which displays them all and includes some cool features such as wine walk: https://geneveterroir.ch/en/carte. In June of each year the canton holds its wine open day (in 2023 it’s on 13.05), which is a fun event which many locals look forward to.

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